On a cold and very windy day we visited the most expansive collection of old windmills on offer in Holland. Kinderdijk, not far from Rotterdam, has 19 of them set in marshland well below sea level. The windmills may no longer be doing their old job of pumping water up into the nearby river (a modern screw-type pump does that) but they look beautiful all the same. Those who are hungry – really hungry – can have an excellent pancake at the cafe nearby. We recommend splitting one.